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going out of tune
#1
Posted 17 October 2004 - 09:31 PM
I have never really used my acoustic (ibanez AEF30)much for anything else besides strumming chords and fingerpicking, but recently I have noticed that it's been going out of tune a lot. It has die-cast gold tuners and I am guessing that they are the problem. What other possibilities are there? Am I not stringing them correctly? They are not new strings.
any suggestions?
any suggestions?
#2
Posted 17 October 2004 - 10:21 PM
Since you said the strings have just recently been going out of tune it's probably not the way you're stringing the guitar. It could just be that your strings are really old and they've lost their integrity. Try changing the strings and after allowing some break-in time see if they go out of tune quickly like the old set. Another possibility (although a lot less likely) is that the strings are improperly wound around the posts. Since it sounds like they used to stay in tune this probably isn't the problem. If they're all going out of tune the problem isn't the tuners.
#6
Posted 18 October 2004 - 07:01 AM
dadfad has enough info posted on changing strings the proper way that GTU INC. LTD. will be coming out with the book "Changing Strings With DADFAD"...look for the movie. Seriously, try a new set of strings and double wrap them into the peg holes; especially the thinner strings..insert the string into the peg hole....turn the peg about five times then reinsert the string back into the peg hole and tune. If your guitar is old, you may want to get it tuned up at a shop.
#7
Posted 18 October 2004 - 11:10 AM
QUOTE (stuartmerenbloom @ Oct 18 2004, 01:01 PM)
dadfad has enough info posted on changing strings the proper way that GTU INC. LTD. will be coming out with the book "Changing Strings With DADFAD"...look for the movie. Seriously, try a new set of strings and double wrap them into the peg holes; especially the thinner strings..insert the string into the peg hole....turn the peg about five times then reinsert the string back into the peg hole and tune. If your guitar is old, you may want to get it tuned up at a shop.
Indeed, search for one of Dadfad's posts on putting on strings, and follow this method to a T.
Edit: Sig' removed.
This post has been edited by evileye: 18 October 2004 - 12:50 PM
#8
Posted 18 October 2004 - 12:03 PM
I'll save him the trouble!
QUOTE
Here's part of an old post:

CODE
On 2001-08-24 02:50, dadfad wrote:
.....here's how you should string a guitar. Wound strings
should be looped under its self at the tuner and bent over
itself so that when you tighten the string it squeezes against
itself and locks it in. This prevents the wound-string core
from slipping inside of the windings. There should be enough
slack in the string for at least two or three turns around the peg.
.....here's how you should string a guitar. Wound strings
should be looped under its self at the tuner and bent over
itself so that when you tighten the string it squeezes against
itself and locks it in. This prevents the wound-string core
from slipping inside of the windings. There should be enough
slack in the string for at least two or three turns around the peg.

CODE
Solid strings shouldn't be looped under and back over because,
being thin and hard, they can actually cut through themselves
causing premature breakage. Instead they should be threaded
back through the eye of the peg at least once (even twice if
possible on the thinnest strings) and snugged up good and
tight as possible by hand so there is no slack where it was
threaded back through the peg. You should have at least four
turns around the peg. Remember, all turns around the pegs
should be under the string, each turn lower than the previous
turn, so that each turned circle of string pushes the last
one up tighter toward the hole in the peg thus squeezing the
string that passes through the hole even tighter in the hole.
That's why the peg has a slight taper in it up toward the hole.
So that the windings will move up.
On the ball-end of the string, when you put it through the hole in the bridge where the bridge-pins go, put your hand inside the sound-hole to make sure the ball is up close next to the underside of the top of
the guitar. Slightly bend it right at the end so it's next
to the pin, not below it. Remember, the bridge-pins aren't
supposed to be pulled upwards by string tension. The tension
should be sideways against that pin as the strings are tight-
ened. Some pins have little grooves in them. If so, make sure
they face the right way If all else fails, you can buy just
the single string and start over. I hope this isn't too basic
and helps a bit. I know that for me, many years ago, when I
began playing, it was probably a year or two before someone
took the time to show me how to string a guitar properly.
Good luck.
Here’s part of another one:
Solids should go through twice, with the windings coiled underneath so
that they sort of slide up the taper as the peg is tightened to lock the string in even more.
Wound strings should go through once and then be tucked and bent around itself so that
as it is tightened the winding locks that in too. It also prevents "internal" slippage. The inner
core of a wound string can slip through the windings and make it go out of tune often.
Bending it over and locking it under the first winding prevents that.
Another one….
The holes in the pegs don't need to be lined up to start (unless it's easier for you that way). Just tuck a solid in, leaving a couple of fingers-worth of slack and take it around and tuck it into the other side again, pulling it snuggly (snug up the loop from re-tucking it in). Now wind it with the winds under the hole, making sure each wind is below the last so they tend to move up as it's tightened (that's why the peg is tapered toward the hole). On solids, five or six turns is about right. For wound strings, run it through the hole, now come half-way around again. Instead of trying to tuck it in the second time (it won't fit anyway, being too thick), put the slack string-end under the string where it enters the hole. Now bend it up and over itself close to the peg so that as you turn the peg, the string will tighten on itself which locks it in and prevents slippage. Two or three turns are about right for wound strings (again, under each other consecutively on the peg so they tend to push upwards toward the hole.
And another:
Most cheap plastic string-winders have a little slot on the bottom for pulling bridge pins out. Lots
of people never even noticed it was there! You can use a spoon too (protect your guitar finish).
Before they put “pullers” on string-winders, a tool I made myself for this was an small table-fork
where I cut off one of the middle prongs so the peg fit right in and I could pop it off easily.
They can also be pushed out from the inside with a hard object if necessary by loosening the
strings first. (I use a Bic lighter.)
_________________
There are other ones too if you use the "SEARCH" feature below.
Try looking under "changing strings" using ALL KEYWORDS.
being thin and hard, they can actually cut through themselves
causing premature breakage. Instead they should be threaded
back through the eye of the peg at least once (even twice if
possible on the thinnest strings) and snugged up good and
tight as possible by hand so there is no slack where it was
threaded back through the peg. You should have at least four
turns around the peg. Remember, all turns around the pegs
should be under the string, each turn lower than the previous
turn, so that each turned circle of string pushes the last
one up tighter toward the hole in the peg thus squeezing the
string that passes through the hole even tighter in the hole.
That's why the peg has a slight taper in it up toward the hole.
So that the windings will move up.
On the ball-end of the string, when you put it through the hole in the bridge where the bridge-pins go, put your hand inside the sound-hole to make sure the ball is up close next to the underside of the top of
the guitar. Slightly bend it right at the end so it's next
to the pin, not below it. Remember, the bridge-pins aren't
supposed to be pulled upwards by string tension. The tension
should be sideways against that pin as the strings are tight-
ened. Some pins have little grooves in them. If so, make sure
they face the right way If all else fails, you can buy just
the single string and start over. I hope this isn't too basic
and helps a bit. I know that for me, many years ago, when I
began playing, it was probably a year or two before someone
took the time to show me how to string a guitar properly.
Good luck.
Here’s part of another one:
Solids should go through twice, with the windings coiled underneath so
that they sort of slide up the taper as the peg is tightened to lock the string in even more.
Wound strings should go through once and then be tucked and bent around itself so that
as it is tightened the winding locks that in too. It also prevents "internal" slippage. The inner
core of a wound string can slip through the windings and make it go out of tune often.
Bending it over and locking it under the first winding prevents that.
Another one….
The holes in the pegs don't need to be lined up to start (unless it's easier for you that way). Just tuck a solid in, leaving a couple of fingers-worth of slack and take it around and tuck it into the other side again, pulling it snuggly (snug up the loop from re-tucking it in). Now wind it with the winds under the hole, making sure each wind is below the last so they tend to move up as it's tightened (that's why the peg is tapered toward the hole). On solids, five or six turns is about right. For wound strings, run it through the hole, now come half-way around again. Instead of trying to tuck it in the second time (it won't fit anyway, being too thick), put the slack string-end under the string where it enters the hole. Now bend it up and over itself close to the peg so that as you turn the peg, the string will tighten on itself which locks it in and prevents slippage. Two or three turns are about right for wound strings (again, under each other consecutively on the peg so they tend to push upwards toward the hole.
And another:
Most cheap plastic string-winders have a little slot on the bottom for pulling bridge pins out. Lots
of people never even noticed it was there! You can use a spoon too (protect your guitar finish).
Before they put “pullers” on string-winders, a tool I made myself for this was an small table-fork
where I cut off one of the middle prongs so the peg fit right in and I could pop it off easily.
They can also be pushed out from the inside with a hard object if necessary by loosening the
strings first. (I use a Bic lighter.)
_________________
There are other ones too if you use the "SEARCH" feature below.
Try looking under "changing strings" using ALL KEYWORDS.
Un-plugged is not the same as
never-was-plugged-in-to-begin-with.

John Jackson -My Teacher and My Old Friend
When the roll is called up yonder he'll be there
never-was-plugged-in-to-begin-with.

John Jackson -My Teacher and My Old Friend
When the roll is called up yonder he'll be there
#10
Posted 18 October 2004 - 04:40 PM
Some styles of tuners have little screws on the back of them that you can tighten, otherwise replacement is about it. Using a capo might help it stay in tune a little better meanwhile.
Un-plugged is not the same as
never-was-plugged-in-to-begin-with.

John Jackson -My Teacher and My Old Friend
When the roll is called up yonder he'll be there
never-was-plugged-in-to-begin-with.

John Jackson -My Teacher and My Old Friend
When the roll is called up yonder he'll be there
#13
Posted 21 October 2004 - 04:21 PM
If you've been playing a lot, changing the strings more than once a month is prolly your answer... the poorer quality the guitar, the sooner you can notice differences in pitch when the strings get old (from my experience...) Your self proclaimed "cheap ibanez" might be your problem
"don't crap in your own nest" -the smartest bird ever
#14
Posted 25 October 2004 - 07:40 PM
thanks for those-i know how to string a guitar and i've never had too many tuning problems but i'll do these in the future regardless.
also vaseline or pencil graphite into your nut as lubricant really helps stability- especially if you bend alot.
also try thicker, high quality strings next time.
make sure you stretch them in well also- if you don't know how try and search.
if none of these things help much then i would see about getting new tuners
also vaseline or pencil graphite into your nut as lubricant really helps stability- especially if you bend alot.
also try thicker, high quality strings next time.
make sure you stretch them in well also- if you don't know how try and search.
if none of these things help much then i would see about getting new tuners
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