[vmorrissette]

I just had my first string bust on me, and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions or if any will do. Also, last time I had my guitar restrung was at Guitar Centre, but I am pretty sure that I can do it myself... w/ the help of books (of course).

[MakoMako]

Changing strings is pretty easy, so you won't have to worry about it being hard. It's also a pretty valuable, yet simple, skill to have.

Anyway, alot of people like Elixer or D'arddario(sp?) strings. I've used both and I personally like the D'arddario strings a little bit more. I don't know if your guitar can handle medium or heavy gauge strings, so I'd get Light Gauge just to be safe.

Hope this helps, and I'm pretty sure someone else could give some more info, this is just the two brands I've used and personally like most.

[Graeme! Yes, Graeme!]

Strings breaking is a fact of life. It happens occasionally, and there's generally not much you can do about it. A number of things can cause a string to break from wear and tear through age to a sharp edge on the guitar nicking it. If you do find that your strings snap in the same place a lot check to see if there are any rough or sharp bits on your guitar that may need to be smoothed.

As for good strings, there's a wide variety of strings out there. What you think is good all depends on personal preference. Myself, I like Elixir strings, but I know they're not to everyone's taste. Different kinds of strings can give different tones and play sligtly differently. Have a search for topics about strings here, there have been quite a few.

[annoying_2001]

i like d'adarrio strings.

you can find how to change strings online.

[knot4reel91]

I just replaced my strings for the first time about a month and a half ago. It was the first time changing the strings and I invisioned it being an extremely daunting task, but was pleasantly surprised when I was done.

As long as you replace one string at a time you should have no trouble whatsoever. just pay attention to the fashion in which the string is wrapped around the tuning head. Once the strings are completely loosened you should be able to remove the bridge pins with ease.

The only tool you will need handy is a sharp set of needle-nose pliers to snip the excess string. With this little bit of knowledge you should be able to successfully change your own strings. As mentioned above, this is an extremely important skill to have, since it will prove handy many times in the future.

As for the type of string. Ive had both Elixirs and D'Addarios. I had the Medium gauge Elixir with the polyweb coating on it and was extremely satisfied. They were the strings that came with my guitar and the ones I prefer.

I recently replaced them with a set of D'Addario Medium gauge phosphor bronze. I like these strings very much as well. They have a similar sound to the Elixirs but prefer the Elixirs simply because they were the strings that came with the guitar.

Good Luck

[AcousticSmash]

I was using Ernie Ball Earthwood Mediums myself but I have switched over to D'Addario Lights because I want a brighter tone as opposed to the deeper mellow sound that you get with heavier strings. Really D'Addario make good acoustic strings, their electric strings are terrible though IMO (at least the stock ones that are equipped on all the ones in stores are). Check the Ernie Ball and D'Addario brands out though and fiddle around with guages until you find one that you like. If you are still starting out you will want to start out using a Light guage of strings, thin strings help develop some callouses and then once you have played with them constantly for a couple of months you can switch to a heavier guage of strings if you choose.

[vmorrissette]

Thanks. This is another beginner question, but the difference between light, medium strings is tone or volume, both or neither?

[dadfad]

Everyone has their favorite strings. Usually I like D'Addario Phosphor-Bronze. Changing is pretty easy. This might help to.

CODE

Here's part of an old post:

On 2001-08-24 02:50, dadfad wrote:

.....here's how you should string a guitar. Wound strings
should be looped under its self at the tuner and bent over
itself so that when you tighten the string it squeezes against
itself and locks it in. This prevents the wound-string core
from slipping inside of the windings. There should be enough
slack in the string for at least two or three turns around the peg.

CODE

Solid strings shouldn't be looped under and back over because,
being thin and hard, they can actually cut through themselves
causing premature breakage. Instead they should be threaded
back through the eye of the peg at least once (even twice if
possible on the thinnest strings) and snugged up good and
tight as possible by hand so there is no slack where it was
threaded back through the peg. You should have at least four
turns around the peg. Remember, all turns around the pegs
should be under the string, each turn lower than the previous
turn, so that each turned circle of string pushes the last
one up tighter toward the hole in the peg thus squeezing the
string that passes through the hole even tighter in the hole.
That's why the peg has a slight taper in it up toward the hole.
So that the windings will move up.

On the ball-end of the string, when you put it through the hole in the bridge where the bridge-pins go, put your hand inside the sound-hole to make sure the ball is up close next to the underside of the top of
the guitar. Slightly bend it right at the end so it's next
to the pin, not below it. Remember, the bridge-pins aren't
supposed to be pulled upwards by string tension. The tension
should be sideways against that pin as the strings are tight-
ened. Some pins have little grooves in them. If so, make sure
they face the right way. I hope this isn't too basic
and helps a bit. I know that for me, many years ago, when I
began playing, it was probably a year or two before someone
took the time to show me how to string a guitar properly.
Good luck.

Here’s part of another one:

Solids should go through twice, with the windings coiled underneath so
that they sort of slide up the taper as the peg is tightened to lock the string in even more.
Wound strings should go through once and then be tucked and bent around itself so that
as it is tightened the winding locks that in too. It also prevents "internal" slippage. The inner
core of a wound string can slip through the windings and make it go out of tune often.
Bending it over and locking it under the first winding prevents that.

Another one….

The holes in the pegs don't need to be lined up to start (unless it's easier for you that way). Just tuck a solid in, leaving a couple of fingers-worth of slack and take it around and tuck it into the other side again, pulling it snuggly (snug up the loop from re-tucking it in). Now wind it with the winds under the hole, making sure each wind is below the last so they tend to move up as it's tightened (that's why the peg is tapered toward the hole). On solids, five or six turns is about right. For wound strings, run it through the hole, now come half-way around again. Instead of trying to tuck it in the second time (it won't fit anyway, being too thick), put the slack string-end under the string where it enters the hole. Now bend it up and over itself close to the peg so that as you turn the peg, the string will tighten on itself which locks it in and prevents slippage. Two or three turns are about right for wound strings (again, under each other consecutively on the peg so they tend to push upwards toward the hole.


And another:

Most cheap plastic string-winders have a little slot on the bottom for pulling bridge pins out. Lots
of people never even noticed it was there! You can use a spoon too (protect your guitar finish).
Before they put “pullers” on string-winders, a tool I made myself for this was a small table-fork
where I cut off one of the middle prongs so the peg fit right in and I could pop it off easily.
They can also be pushed out from the inside with a hard object if necessary by loosening the
strings first. (I use a Bic lighter.)

[JohnnyBeGood]

Hi Guys if you are playing a Classical guitar I would recommend D'Addarios Pro Arte Normal strings (EJ45's)they have a great sound.
If like me you have a lattice bracing system I would recommend using D'Addarios Pro Arte Hard Tension (EJ46's) to really get the sound board moving.

Regarding Steel string Acoustics I have tried pretty much everything out there, a lot of people rave about Elixir strings but personally I would not recommend these as I feel that they restrict the overtones of a string. Some manufactures fit them on new guitars because they have a plastic coat on them which stops the strings from tarnishing and keeps the guitar looking pretty but sounding ######ty.

Once again I would also recommend D'Addarios 85*15 Bronze strings but these are not my favourites.

One of my favourite strings is Rotosound Country Golds (Phosphor Bronze) strings,
these are designed like a piano string and really ring out. I use these on my little Crafter TO45 (One of the best guitars I have ever played)

But if you want your guitar to sound really good you need to change your strings on a regular basis, (Every couple of weeks really) I know this can be expensive but not if you use the right strings.

What I would recommend to every guitarist would be to use Darco Phosphor Bronze Wound strings. These in my humble opinion are the best strings on the market. I buy these strings in sets of 10 and they work out at approx £2.50 per set and I know most of you guys are saying I've never heard of these strings but the beauty of it is they are actually made by Martin & Co.

http://www.music123....e-i229248.music

If you have never tried these strings now is the time to, your guitar will never have sounded so sweet.

[vmorrissette]

So I bought some d'adarrio's and strung my Takamine for the first time... it took a while, but I got it eventually. Thanks for all your help.

[vmorrissette]

This blew my mind... I can't believe that someone would do this to a martin...

[Schneibster]

I used to use Guild Phosphor Bronze, but then I had a "taste test" with my electrics and found the shimmering high end on GHS strings unbeatable. When I tried a set of GHS Phosphor Bronze Lights (.011s), those highs were still there- with the sound one expects on the bass from phosphor bronze to go with it.

I recently put a set of Elixirs on, and found them far to "twangy," almost "tinny," for my taste. I'll admit they last a long time- but I'd rather have ones that sound better and I have to replace more often!

In NOTHING (except perhaps the eternal bickering between the Strat'ers and LP'ers) will you find as wide a range of opinions as in strings. My recommendation is that you try several different brands until you find what you like best. I am not a D'Addario fan, but I confess to not having tried more than a single set of their acoustic strings; however, their electric strings are my least favorite, and the only set of acoustics of theirs I tried broke very quickly and I discarded them and replaced them with GHS and was much happier with the sound.

And all of this is nothing but my humble opinion- I'll again recommend that you play enough different strings to form your own.

[Schneibster]

BTW, dad, I take care of the winding slip problem by folding the end over and squeezing it with pliers; the inside of the bend locks the winding in place with several hundred pounds' pressure. Since I started doing this, I've never had a winding loosen on me. YMMV. But if it's easier, you might wanna try it. I may try your method of looping the string if I remember.

ETA: I also pull the string hand-tight and wind it around the tuning peg before I put it thru the hole; I follow the pattern 2-3-4-5-6-7 for the number of times to wind it, obviously only winding the low E twice and the high E seven times (good luck winding that big old .042 seven times around a tuning peg! ). This takes some manual dexterity not to let the string escape from your grip while you're doing it. I agree with you completely on putting the plain strings twice through the hole in the peg; but I also do that with the D (and wound G on acoustic strings) as well, if it will fit. I generally cut the end off the plain strings pretty flush with the peg, and fold the end of the wound strings over as I've described and cut off the excess where it comes back to the peg, with the fold about a quarter inch or less from the peg.

This post has been edited by Schneibster: 20 January 2006 - 06:09 PM

[vmorrissette]

this might be a bit redundant, but I feel obligated to share that my takamine G series sounds infinately better than it did before I changed the strings. Either the stock strings were worn, or these D'Addario's are amazing.

[AndyFroe]

yes that wonderful post string change sound keeps me changing mine ever week and a half

[vmorrissette]

yes that wonderful post string change sound keeps me changing mine ever week and a half

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I can certainly tell the difference... they sound like "normal" again

[Anothe ERIC CLAPTON wannabe]

i change my strings every three weeks... but still they sound "normal"...

BTW this is from the catalog that came with my ovation.

"thread your new strings, one at a time, throught their correct bridge positions. Cut each string about 1 1/2" past the appropriate tuning peg. Starting with the low "E" string, insert the string into the tuning peg hole so that about 1 1/2" of th string goes through the hole. Then, crank the tuning machine counterclockwise, while guiding the string into its correct slot on the nut. Make sure that, as the string is beaing brought up to pitch, the string wraps around the peg below
the hole. Once the low "E" string is tuned, Work on the high "E" string next, then work toward the middle strings until all the strings are brought to pitch.

hope that will help.