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getting into classical guitars now and I know nothing about them
#1
Posted 17 July 2006 - 02:24 AM
I'm going to college next year for a musical degree and I think I may need a classical guitar. The only acoustic I have is a First Act one. I've tried playing classical on it, but with 13's and 1/4" action it's becoming evident that trying to play classical on it isn't really going to work out. I really need a better quality acoustic. Anyway, I've been trying to find a decent classical guitar for a pretty good price, at or under $300 if possible. But finding a left handed classical isn't all that easy. I've seen a Dean classical for $300. It has a preamp in it, which I really don't need.
Can anyone recommend a quality classical (or as quality as they get) for $300 or so? And in a left handed model? Or could someone give me some older brand names in case I run across a used one?
I really know nothing about classicals. I've always played classical on acoustic guitars or Strats. Are they tuned like a normal guitar, EADGBE? And how do you restring one? I know you have to tie a knot in the string at the bridge, but how do you do that?
If anyone can provide some information I'd be very grateful. And if you have any other information about classicals you'd like to share, I'll take everything I can know.
Can anyone recommend a quality classical (or as quality as they get) for $300 or so? And in a left handed model? Or could someone give me some older brand names in case I run across a used one?
I really know nothing about classicals. I've always played classical on acoustic guitars or Strats. Are they tuned like a normal guitar, EADGBE? And how do you restring one? I know you have to tie a knot in the string at the bridge, but how do you do that?
If anyone can provide some information I'd be very grateful. And if you have any other information about classicals you'd like to share, I'll take everything I can know.
#2
Posted 17 July 2006 - 03:07 AM
I don't know about shopping for classical guitars, but I know a bit about them as a whole.
They are tuned normally, the standard tuning for any guitar. They have less frets, and the body tends to be a bit small. The strings, as opposed to steel, are nylon and are on rollers as opposed to the tuning pegs. That's about all the knowledge I have of classical guitars, I hope that helps somehow.
edit: I'm not positive of how to tie the string to the bridge, but if you do a google search, or even a search on this website, I'm sure you'll find something.
They are tuned normally, the standard tuning for any guitar. They have less frets, and the body tends to be a bit small. The strings, as opposed to steel, are nylon and are on rollers as opposed to the tuning pegs. That's about all the knowledge I have of classical guitars, I hope that helps somehow.
edit: I'm not positive of how to tie the string to the bridge, but if you do a google search, or even a search on this website, I'm sure you'll find something.
This post has been edited by MakoMako: 17 July 2006 - 03:08 AM
#3
Posted 17 July 2006 - 04:12 AM
Okay. Classical guitars. They're tuned like a normal guitar, and they have nylon strings, that are easier on the fingers and also produce a softer, rounder and mellower tone. The neck joins the body at the twelfth fret, and the body is generally a wee bit smaller than steel string acoustics. The fretboard is wider, and is completely flat, unlike steel string acoustics where the fretboard is usually slightly curved (meaning that if you're going to be using a capo on a classical, get a classical capo).
As for restringing, go to this site: http://www.frets.com...lassicstr1.html
It shows how to restring a classical guitar, and has lots of pictures. I don't particularly like the lack of 'tidyness' in his knotting at the saddle, I prefer my strings to be very neat at the saddle, more like this (even though it's not quite as neat as I'd like. It was the first time I'd strung it myself and the string angles are kinda funky):

I highly recommend using D'Addario Pro Arte strings, I like the hard tension ones myself as they produce a louder sound, even if they are a little bit harder on the fingers. Though you having played acoustic before it'll feel like playing on a pillow of some sort anyway. Some people really like the composites which last two or three times as long as the normal ones, but I've yet to try them. I've got a pack around that's going on the next time I restring.
Guitar makes. I would strongly suggest that you invest in a classical guitar that has at least a solid-top. I don't know about prices in America, but I'd say $300 should get you a decent solid top. I like Admira classicals, they're made in Spain and are of good quality for the price. I dislike Yamaha classicals, I find the action is too high for deft fingerwork, though the higher end ones seem to be quite decent. I'm not sure about other makes, I haven't really experimented much. The guitar shop I used to frequent also carried Alhambra brand spanish classicals, but I don't know how those play.
I don't know that finding a lefty classical is essential. Seems to me you could flip it and string it backward and have it sound fine as long as you flipped the nut and bridge as well. But you might want to get that checked by someone else, maybe dadfad.
I don't know what else you might want to know but ask away and I'll try and help you.
As for restringing, go to this site: http://www.frets.com...lassicstr1.html
It shows how to restring a classical guitar, and has lots of pictures. I don't particularly like the lack of 'tidyness' in his knotting at the saddle, I prefer my strings to be very neat at the saddle, more like this (even though it's not quite as neat as I'd like. It was the first time I'd strung it myself and the string angles are kinda funky):

I highly recommend using D'Addario Pro Arte strings, I like the hard tension ones myself as they produce a louder sound, even if they are a little bit harder on the fingers. Though you having played acoustic before it'll feel like playing on a pillow of some sort anyway. Some people really like the composites which last two or three times as long as the normal ones, but I've yet to try them. I've got a pack around that's going on the next time I restring.
Guitar makes. I would strongly suggest that you invest in a classical guitar that has at least a solid-top. I don't know about prices in America, but I'd say $300 should get you a decent solid top. I like Admira classicals, they're made in Spain and are of good quality for the price. I dislike Yamaha classicals, I find the action is too high for deft fingerwork, though the higher end ones seem to be quite decent. I'm not sure about other makes, I haven't really experimented much. The guitar shop I used to frequent also carried Alhambra brand spanish classicals, but I don't know how those play.
I don't know that finding a lefty classical is essential. Seems to me you could flip it and string it backward and have it sound fine as long as you flipped the nut and bridge as well. But you might want to get that checked by someone else, maybe dadfad.
I don't know what else you might want to know but ask away and I'll try and help you.
#4
Posted 17 July 2006 - 12:57 PM
So they are tuned normally. That was my biggest wonder. With the strings, do they come in different guages, or are classical strings rated in tension?
That Dean I looked at had a solid cedar top. I don't know if that's a common wood for classicals or not. I probably could flip one over. I've done that with a few guitars. Can you flip the nut? I wanted to do that with my acoustic, but it had a curvature on the other side and it wouldn't sit flush with the fretboard. I didn't really want to sand it down because it would've made it thin. I was worried if it would retain it's structural integrity. If the bridge is like an acoustic, it ought to just pull out and I can flip it pretty easily I think.
That Dean I looked at had a solid cedar top. I don't know if that's a common wood for classicals or not. I probably could flip one over. I've done that with a few guitars. Can you flip the nut? I wanted to do that with my acoustic, but it had a curvature on the other side and it wouldn't sit flush with the fretboard. I didn't really want to sand it down because it would've made it thin. I was worried if it would retain it's structural integrity. If the bridge is like an acoustic, it ought to just pull out and I can flip it pretty easily I think.
#5
Posted 17 July 2006 - 05:10 PM
You cant filp the nut but theres a possability you could flip the saddle though id recoment just doing things proper rather than cutting corers like that. But its not always just the nut and saddle you need to take into consideration. You have to look at the braceing to. If the baceing is semetrical then you will be out but its often the case.
#7
Posted 18 July 2006 - 03:43 AM
I think it would be, they are harder to find and usually slightly more expensive though.
Cedar is a good wood. They have a much mellower and rounder sound than say, spruce tops. My classical has a solid cedar top and I love the sound it produces. Mine also has rosewood sides and back and an ebony fretboard.
(adds, the nut on my classical comes off. I don't know if that's just strange or if it's normal.)
Cedar is a good wood. They have a much mellower and rounder sound than say, spruce tops. My classical has a solid cedar top and I love the sound it produces. Mine also has rosewood sides and back and an ebony fretboard.
(adds, the nut on my classical comes off. I don't know if that's just strange or if it's normal.)
#8
Posted 18 July 2006 - 12:59 PM
QUOTE (dogpoo @ Jul 18 2006, 09:43 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I think it would be, they are harder to find and usually slightly more expensive though.
Cedar is a good wood. They have a much mellower and rounder sound than say, spruce tops. My classical has a solid cedar top and I love the sound it produces. Mine also has rosewood sides and back and an ebony fretboard.
(adds, the nut on my classical comes off. I don't know if that's just strange or if it's normal.)
Cedar is a good wood. They have a much mellower and rounder sound than say, spruce tops. My classical has a solid cedar top and I love the sound it produces. Mine also has rosewood sides and back and an ebony fretboard.
(adds, the nut on my classical comes off. I don't know if that's just strange or if it's normal.)
Yes it come off but is curved on one side and your slots are angled at least thats how it should be so you cant just flip it round. Even if the string slots were of the same thickness at bass and treble side and the action was the same also. But sure it should come off. it should sit nice and snug in the slot but it should come off. Some people do glue them in but theres very no need for it if the jobs been done proper. Its normaly glued in to save it falling out as it goes down the production line.
As far as woods for clasicals goes ceder is the prefered wood for both top and neck with rosewood preferable brazilian being the prefered back and side wood. Flemenco guitars which are simular tend to use cyprus for the backs and sides.
#10
Posted 21 July 2006 - 09:53 PM
I'm thinking about going with the Dean classical. I couldn't really decide between the Dean, a better acoustic or a Strat. I've decided my Peavey is cool enough for what I want, my First Act acoustic while not the best out there still is in working order, but I think the classical will be something different.
And just so I know I'm not crazy, there are no unwound strings on a classical right?
And just so I know I'm not crazy, there are no unwound strings on a classical right?
#14
Posted 23 July 2006 - 08:51 AM
QUOTE (billy16 @ Jul 17 2006, 03:24 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I really know nothing about classicals. I've always played classical on acoustic guitars or Strats. Are they tuned like a normal guitar, EADGBE?
Ok, if you have played classical stuff on your acoustic and/or electric why would the tuning be any different on a classical?
Realize that the classical guitar has been around a whole lot longer than steel string guitars. Steel strings are purely an American adaptation so that makes steel string guitars less than 200 years old.
#15
Posted 02 August 2006 - 11:29 PM
QUOTE (billy16 @ Jul 17 2006, 12:57 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
So they are tuned normally. That was my biggest wonder. With the strings, do they come in different guages, or are classical strings rated in tension?
That Dean I looked at had a solid cedar top. I don't know if that's a common wood for classicals or not. I probably could flip one over. I've done that with a few guitars. Can you flip the nut? I wanted to do that with my acoustic, but it had a curvature on the other side and it wouldn't sit flush with the fretboard. I didn't really want to sand it down because it would've made it thin. I was worried if it would retain it's structural integrity. If the bridge is like an acoustic, it ought to just pull out and I can flip it pretty easily I think.
That Dean I looked at had a solid cedar top. I don't know if that's a common wood for classicals or not. I probably could flip one over. I've done that with a few guitars. Can you flip the nut? I wanted to do that with my acoustic, but it had a curvature on the other side and it wouldn't sit flush with the fretboard. I didn't really want to sand it down because it would've made it thin. I was worried if it would retain it's structural integrity. If the bridge is like an acoustic, it ought to just pull out and I can flip it pretty easily I think.
Just learn to play right handed thats what I did
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