[capo2nd]

Well, in that other thread, I said I used to have fret buzzing on the G and D strings and solved that by rising the action. Now, having risen the action and capoed the guitar on the second fret, I encounter major fret buzz on the A, G and D strings. How can that be?! Any tips how to cure this?

[wavewalker]

Is it a crappy capo?

[capo2nd]

I have a Kyser Trigger Capo and a Shubb. I wouldn't say those are crappy models, would you? I have tried them both, no luck.

[jessep727]

Where on the fret are you putting the capo? in the middle? right behind the fret?
Maybe that could be the problem. You should be placing your capo directly behind the fret not smack in between

[capo2nd]

I always put it right behind the fret. Never did it differently.

[wavewalker]

You say it doesn't buzz without the Capo?

Are your frets worn down? Are you sure the rubber on the capos aren't worn?

Sounds odd to me.

[capo2nd]

I am sure. What's even more odd is that it's only when playing caoped on the second fret.

[wavewalker]

Are you using different size strings?

[capo2nd]

Nope. It's a set of Martin .13 Bronzes I have on.

[dadfad]

And the strings don't buzz when fingered on the second fret, only when caoped?

And what fret do they buzz on? (When moving up the neck one string and one fret at a time, what fingered-fret does it stop buzzing on?)

[capo2nd]

The A does and the D does buzz a little. The G is fine.

[capo2nd]

It is only the 2nd fret on the A, G and D strings that buzzes. Nothing else.

[dadfad]

To my post above I added (and you may not have seen) what fret do they stop buzzing on?

[wavewalker]

I have come to the conclusion that your guitar is haunted by a buzz demond. You need a young priest and an old priest.

[capo2nd]

To my post above I added (and you may not have seen) what fret do they stop buzzing on?

See the above post. It's the A, G and D strings buzzing on the 2nd fret. NOWHERE else.

[dadfad]

Okay, let me get this right.......

You capo the second fret and those strings buzz played open.

They do not buzz when fingered on another fret above the capo?

[capo2nd]

Very true. And when played on the second fret without capo. Capo 1st and played at the 1st fret doesn't buzz either.

[dadfad]

Examine your third fret-wire. Any signs of lifting at all? (The line around the bottom of the fret where it meets the board hasn't widened or anything? Especially on the bass-side.)

[capo2nd]

The wire seperating frets 2 and 3 is alright, so is the wire seperating the frets 3 and 4.

[dadfad]

If when you fret/capo the second fret there's a buzz but then there is no buzz if you finger the first fret above the capo and there is no buzz (the third fret-space/fourth fret wire) the fourth wire is probably the one causing the buzzing. The fret-wire immediately above where the buzzing stops is usually the fret-wire that is lightly contacting the string and causing the buzz. In all likelihood you wouldn't be able to place a piece of thin paper (usually about .002" thick) between the open-string and that fret and play it without the paper being buzzed. So I believe it to be the fourth fret-wire. Frequently that implies the fret has lifted, but not always. The normal changes in a neck over time, maybe the fact that you capo often on your second fret (as your name implies!) might have caused a bit of wear or indentation on THAT fret (second-fret/third-wire) which, in effect, allows the string to be pushed a tiny bit lower than it once was in relation to the next fret(s).....any of these changes could cause it. I'm going to assume that your neck is now adjusted properly by the truss-rod (an 1/8 turn or so might take care of the problem but might be loosening it more than you'd like). So I'll assume that your truss-rod is where you want it to be. This leaves two possible ways to solve the problem....you take down the "offending" fret or raise the string(s). You might be able to slightly re-crown your fret with a fine file or finger-nail emery-board. This sometimes will solve the problem (usually only a very small amount of change....several one-thousanths of an inch.....is all that is required. Many times though, when one fret is lowered, the problem merely moves up to the next fret (the previous one now being lower when it is fingered) and so you move on up the board, in effect doing a partial fret-job, for a very minor problem. If all of your other strings are okay height-wise but wouldn't be adversely effected if they were maybe .007" or so higher, I would be more inclined to raise saddle-height. You can of course replace and re-carve a new saddle, but it would be a minor thing to merely "shim" your existing saddle. If done properly there should be no loss in tone or projection. I've posted previously (and saved) how to shim a saddle correctly. I'll find it and put it at the end of this post. Like I said, this is just one of your options (the selections being: truss-rod change; fret re-crown; new saddle; and saddle-shim). If I had the guitar of course it would be easier to make a more definative call, but not having it I can just do the best I can. A very "quick-fix" might be to shim the individual strings themselves right at the saddle.... tiny pieces of very thin metal under where your string contacts the saddle-top itself. They can be made small enough to be almost invisible, but they are temporary and must be replaced with every string change (not a big deal though). Anyway..... let me look for the shimming thing I saved.....

Okay I found it....

CODE

Saddle Shimming


First, check the fret. Look closely to see if it's lifted slightly. If so,
smooth it down a hair with an emery finger-nail board (unless you want to
remove, replace and re-dress it). If it hasn't, replacing the saddle as
mentioned above would do it (as MIGHT a slight truss-rod adjustment
(depends on why it's happening). Here's a simpler fix. Take a tin can top
and a pair of sharp scissors or tin-snips. Cut out a strip a little
shorter and a bit narrower (appx 1/8 inch) than your saddle. This will
probably curl up as you cut it. Straighten it out (tap it with a hammer
on a block of wood, etc). Be careful this is sharp!. Loosen or remove
your strings. Remove the saddle from the bridge. Put the little strip
under it (if it's too wide, don't force it or try to trim it narrower,
just make it over again. Much easier.) Replace the saddle and strings.
They will be about 10/1000 higher. Thin brass works best but most people
don't have that laying around. A tin can won't have a noticeable difference
from brass, but whatever you use, it must be made of metal to transfer the
vibrations back into the wood properly. Good luck.

Anyway, I hope some of this helps.