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#1 User is offline   bogarto Icon

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Post icon  Posted 26 January 2004 - 12:02 PM

Hey Ive got a question... I broke a string on my acoustic and want to switch it out... i have had the same strings on since i bought my guitar about a year ago so im thinkin its time to switch all the strings. A friend of mine told me that you cant take all of you guitar strings off at once because it will mess up the tension of the neck on the guitar, is that true? also can you guys tell me step by step how to take old strings out and replace them with new ones. Another question, can you guys suggest a nice set of mid range priced strings. i looked at the posts about it but i still dont know which ones to buy. all suggestions will be appreciated.


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#2 User is offline   annoying_2001 Icon

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Posted 26 January 2004 - 12:08 PM

i'd like to know too, i'm sure my guitar could use some new strings. and does anyone else know how to get the "plug" looking things out too??
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#3 User is offline   wavewalker Icon

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Posted 26 January 2004 - 12:43 PM

It will loose tension on the neck but when you put the new strings on it goes it back. It does not hurt the guitar at all. I change out all of my strings at least once a month; it also gives me a chance to clean the guitar. I don't have the time to go threw a step-by-step instruction on how to change strings, I'm sorry. There used to be a thread on it but I think it got deleted.
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#4 User is offline   twmk Icon

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Posted 26 January 2004 - 12:58 PM

to change strings

1. to take the plugs out use pliers
2. unravel the old strings out of the tuning heads
3.put new ones in where the plugs are (most strings come colour coded so that won't be a problem)
4. put strings through holes on tuning heads being careful to turn the right way and leaving enough string so that each one wraps around at least 3 times.
5. Tune and play

You will have to keep tuning for a little while as the strings are stretching still.

anyway that's the way to do it.

This post has been edited by twmk: 26 January 2004 - 12:59 PM

shameless plug

http://www.soundclic...ds/1/torrie.htm

hope it works

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#5 User is offline   dadfad Icon

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Posted 26 January 2004 - 02:49 PM

It doesn't hurt to take them all of at once on an acoustic guitar (most electrics are okay too, when you have a trem-system it sometimes makes it rough though). Anyway, here's a quote from a couple of old posts about changing strings....

CODE
Here's part of an old post:

On 2001-08-24 02:50, dadfad wrote:

.....here's how you should string a guitar. Wound strings
should be looped under its self at the tuner and bent over
itself so that when you tighten the string it squeezes against
itself and locks it in. This prevents the wound-string core
from slipping inside of the windings. There should be enough
slack in the string for at least two or three turns around the peg.

Solid strings shouldn't be looped under and back over because,
being thin and hard, they can actually cut through themselves
causing premature breakage. Instead they should be threaded
back through the eye of the peg at least once (even twice if
possible on the thinnest strings) and snugged up good and
tight as possible by hand so there is no slack where it was
threaded back through the peg. You should have at least four
turns around the peg. Remember, all turns around the pegs
should be under the string, each turn lower than the previous
turn, so that each turned circle of string pushes the last
one up tighter toward the hole in the peg thus squeezing the
string that passes through the hole even tighter in the hole.
That's why the peg has a slight taper in it up toward the hole.
So that the windings will move up.

On the ball-end of the string, when you put it through the hole in the bridge where the bridge-pins go, put your hand inside the sound-hole to make sure the ball is up close next to the underside of the top of
the guitar. Slightly bend it right at the end so it's next
to the pin, not below it. Remember, the bridge-pins aren't
supposed to be pulled upwards by string tension. The tension
should be sideways against that pin as the strings are tight-
ened. Some pins have little grooves in them. If so, make sure
they face the right way If all else fails, you can buy just
the single string and start over. I hope this isn't too basic
and helps a bit. I know that for me, many years ago, when I
began playing, it was probably a year or two before someone
took the time to show me how to string a guitar properly.
Good luck.

Here’s part of another one:

Solids should go through twice, with the windings coiled underneath so
that they sort of slide up the taper as the peg is tightened to lock the string in even more.
Wound strings should go through once and then be tucked and bent around itself so that
as it is tightened the winding locks that in too. It also prevents "internal" slippage. The inner
core of a wound string can slip through the windings and make it go out of tune often.
Bending it over and locking it under the first winding prevents that.

Another one….

The holes in the pegs don't need to be lined up to start (unless it's easier for you that way). Just tuck a solid in, leaving a couple of fingers-worth of slack and take it around and tuck it into the other side again, pulling it snuggly (snug up the loop from re-tucking it in). Now wind it with the winds under the hole, making sure each wind is below the last so they tend to move up as it's tightened (that's why the peg is tapered toward the hole). On solids, five or six turns is about right. For wound strings, run it through the hole, now come half-way around again. Instead of trying to tuck it in the second time (it won't fit anyway, being too thick), put the slack string-end under the string where it enters the hole. Now bend it up and over itself close to the peg so that as you turn the peg, the string will tighten on itself which locks it in and prevents slippage. Two or three turns are about right for wound strings (again, under each other consecutively on the peg so they tend to push upwards toward the hole.


And another:

Most cheap plastic string-winders have a little slot on the bottom for pulling bridge pins out. Lots
of people never even noticed it was there! You can use a spoon too (protect your guitar finish).
Before they put “pullers” on string-winders, a tool I made myself for this was an small table-fork
where I cut off one of the middle prongs so the peg fit right in and I could pop it off easily.
They can also be pushed out from the inside with a hard object if necessary by loosening the
strings first. (I use a Bic lighter.)

Un-plugged is not the same as
never-was-plugged-in-to-begin-with.

John Jackson -My Teacher and My Old Friend

When the roll is called up yonder he'll be there
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#6 User is offline   twmk Icon

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Posted 26 January 2004 - 03:14 PM

and i thought i done good... ohmy.gif
shameless plug

http://www.soundclic...ds/1/torrie.htm

hope it works

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#7 User is offline   dadfad Icon

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Posted 26 January 2004 - 03:18 PM

laugh.gif You did! I'd been playing a couple of years before I learned the little bending-it-over-to-lock-it thing. A lot of people don't know about using it, but it helps a lot.
Un-plugged is not the same as
never-was-plugged-in-to-begin-with.

John Jackson -My Teacher and My Old Friend

When the roll is called up yonder he'll be there
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#8 User is offline   capo2nd Icon

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Posted 26 January 2004 - 04:53 PM

I was searching for my string winder all day long. High E on my Miss Takamine broke. My mate (electric guitarist) bent it so hard it broke. dry.gif

Thank God I found it. Now I changed the string and she plays fine again. biggrin.gif
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#9 User is offline   KaZu Icon

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Posted 26 January 2004 - 05:30 PM

less time then it will take you to get responses
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#10 User is offline   pimp_vince Icon

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Posted 26 January 2004 - 06:57 PM

QUOTE (twmk @ Jan 26 2004, 05:58 PM)
1. to take the plugs out use pliers

OUCH!!!!

i've got ebony pins.... can't even think how ugly that would get.... *shudders*
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#11 User is offline   airdog4125 Icon

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Posted 26 January 2004 - 07:22 PM

I gouged the pegs on my old guitar prettg good and broke a string winder. Perhaps I'm just a moron, but I loosen all the strings at the headstock, pull them out of their holes. After I get that end loose, I reach IN the guitar (soundhole) and push the pegs up with my fingertips. That's an alternate if you'd prefer.
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#12 User is offline   capo2nd Icon

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Posted 27 January 2004 - 08:42 AM

QUOTE (airdog4125 @ Jan 27 2004, 01:22 AM)
I gouged the pegs on my old guitar prettg good and broke a string winder.  Perhaps I'm just a moron, but I loosen all the strings at the headstock, pull them out of their holes.  After I get that end loose, I reach IN the guitar (soundhole) and push the pegs up with my fingertips.  That's an alternate if you'd prefer.

That's the way I do it when I change a whole set.
Cannae be arsed unwinding all strings to pull one peg out if I have just one broken string (which is rare, I rarely break strings only change the whole set when I think it's time to).
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#13 User is offline   wavewalker Icon

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Posted 27 January 2004 - 09:41 AM

I don't care what you guys say. Pegs are the devils turds.
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#14 User is offline   capo2nd Icon

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Posted 27 January 2004 - 09:57 AM

Pegs are pish. I wish i had a pegless guitar.
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#15 User is offline   rasav Icon

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Posted 27 January 2004 - 10:18 AM

On the peg thing... I usually loosen my strings then use a quarter to push up on the pegs from underneath. I don't like the thought of gouging my bridge(s)
Just an idea... Not an actual serving suggestion.
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#16 User is offline   annoying_2001 Icon

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Posted 27 January 2004 - 10:57 AM

QUOTE (rasav @ Jan 27 2004, 03:18 PM)
On the peg thing... I usually loosen my strings then use a quarter to push up on the pegs from underneath. I don't like the thought of gouging my bridge(s)

i'll try that when i change them.
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#17 User is offline   manicbassriff Icon

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Posted 27 January 2004 - 01:07 PM

QUOTE (annoying_2001 @ Jan 27 2004, 04:57 PM)
QUOTE (rasav @ Jan 27 2004, 03:18 PM)
On the peg thing... I usually loosen my strings then use a quarter to push up on the pegs from underneath. I don't like the thought of gouging my bridge(s)

i'll try that when i change them.

I don't have any quarters, nor am I likely to.
Because of this I normally just use a plectrum.

EDIT : In answer to the question - probably about fifteen minutes from start to finish including tuning on a 6 string. My 12 string takes a little longer though dry.gif .

This post has been edited by manicbassriff: 27 January 2004 - 01:09 PM

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#18 User is offline   pimp_vince Icon

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Posted 27 January 2004 - 01:15 PM

QUOTE (rasav @ Jan 27 2004, 09:18 AM)
On the peg thing... I usually loosen my strings then use a quarter to push up on the pegs from underneath. I don't like the thought of gouging my bridge(s)

don't the pegs just come out if you loosen the string?
because the peg doesn't actually hold down the string it just holds it a against the inside of the guitar. or at least it works that way for me.
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#19 User is offline   manicbassriff Icon

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Posted 27 January 2004 - 01:20 PM

QUOTE (pimp_vince @ Jan 27 2004, 07:15 PM)
QUOTE (rasav @ Jan 27 2004, 09:18 AM)
On the peg thing... I usually loosen my strings then use a quarter to push up on the pegs from underneath. I don't like the thought of gouging my bridge(s)

don't the pegs just come out if you loosen the string?
because the peg doesn't actually hold down the string it just holds it a against the inside of the guitar. or at least it works that way for me.

I find that after you have slide your peg into the little hole it does get wedged in and often needs a little assistance to be coaxed back out again tongue.gif





(We are talking pegs right ????? unsure.gif )
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#20 User is offline   pimp_vince Icon

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Posted 27 January 2004 - 01:24 PM

yes we are, and that's not really a problem for me. i'm very patient with doing things right on my acoustic..... now on my electric however laugh.gif
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