OK i got me a brand new set of .013 D'Addaro's. I know how to restring it the way i think it should be done. But what is the best method on an ACOUSTIC guitar. Dadfad if you would, im sure youve seen this many times. Thank you
Josh
Page 1 of 1
Stringing help
#2
Posted 31 March 2004 - 08:00 AM
Here's parts of some old posts:
Hopefully these are enough. If not, just ask!
CODE
On 2001-08-24 02:50, dadfad wrote:
.....here's how you should string a guitar. Wound strings
should be looped under its self at the tuner and bent over
itself so that when you tighten the string it squeezes against
itself and locks it in. This prevents the wound-string core
from slipping inside of the windings. There should be enough
slack in the string for at least two or three turns around the peg.
Solid strings shouldn't be looped under and back over because,
being thin and hard, they can actually cut through themselves
causing premature breakage. Instead they should be threaded
back through the eye of the peg at least once (even twice if
possible on the thinnest strings) and snugged up good and
tight as possible by hand so there is no slack where it was
threaded back through the peg. You should have at least four
turns around the peg. Remember, all turns around the pegs
should be under the string, each turn lower than the previous
turn, so that each turned circle of string pushes the last
one up tighter toward the hole in the peg thus squeezing the
string that passes through the hole even tighter in the hole.
That's why the peg has a slight taper in it up toward the hole.
So that the windings will move up.
On the ball-end of the string, when you put it through the hole in the bridge where the bridge-pins go, put your hand inside the sound-hole to make sure the ball is up close next to the underside of the top of
the guitar. Slightly bend it right at the end so it's next
to the pin, not below it. Remember, the bridge-pins aren't
supposed to be pulled upwards by string tension. The tension
should be sideways against that pin as the strings are tight-
ened. Some pins have little grooves in them. If so, make sure
they face the right way If all else fails, you can buy just
the single string and start over. I hope this isn't too basic
and helps a bit. I know that for me, many years ago, when I
began playing, it was probably a year or two before someone
took the time to show me how to string a guitar properly.
Good luck.
Here’s part of another one:
Solids should go through twice, with the windings coiled underneath so
that they sort of slide up the taper as the peg is tightened to lock the string in even more.
Wound strings should go through once and then be tucked and bent around itself so that
as it is tightened the winding locks that in too. It also prevents "internal" slippage. The inner
core of a wound string can slip through the windings and make it go out of tune often.
Bending it over and locking it under the first winding prevents that.
Another one….
The holes in the pegs don't need to be lined up to start (unless it's easier for you that way). Just tuck a solid in, leaving a couple of fingers-worth of slack and take it around the post and tuck it into the other side again, pulling it snuggly (snug up the loop from re-tucking it in). Now wind it with the winds under the hole, making sure each wind is below the last so they tend to move up as it's tightened (that's why the peg is tapered toward the hole). On solids, five or six turns is about right. For wound strings, run it through the hole, now come half-way around again. Instead of trying to tuck it in the second time (it won't fit anyway, being too thick), put the slack string-end under the string where it enters the hole. Now bend it up and over itself close to the peg so that as you turn the peg, the string will tighten on itself which locks it in and prevents slippage. Two or three turns are about right for wound strings (again, under each other consecutively on the peg so they tend to push upwards toward the hole.
And another:
Most cheap plastic string-winders have a little slot on the bottom for pulling bridge pins out. Lots
of people never even noticed it was there! You can use a spoon too (protect your guitar finish).
Before they put “pullers” on string-winders, a tool I made myself for this was an small table-fork
where I cut off one of the middle prongs so the peg fit right in and I could pop it off easily.
They can also be pushed out from the inside with a hard object if necessary by loosening the
strings first. (I use a Bic lighter.)
_________________
.....here's how you should string a guitar. Wound strings
should be looped under its self at the tuner and bent over
itself so that when you tighten the string it squeezes against
itself and locks it in. This prevents the wound-string core
from slipping inside of the windings. There should be enough
slack in the string for at least two or three turns around the peg.
Solid strings shouldn't be looped under and back over because,
being thin and hard, they can actually cut through themselves
causing premature breakage. Instead they should be threaded
back through the eye of the peg at least once (even twice if
possible on the thinnest strings) and snugged up good and
tight as possible by hand so there is no slack where it was
threaded back through the peg. You should have at least four
turns around the peg. Remember, all turns around the pegs
should be under the string, each turn lower than the previous
turn, so that each turned circle of string pushes the last
one up tighter toward the hole in the peg thus squeezing the
string that passes through the hole even tighter in the hole.
That's why the peg has a slight taper in it up toward the hole.
So that the windings will move up.
On the ball-end of the string, when you put it through the hole in the bridge where the bridge-pins go, put your hand inside the sound-hole to make sure the ball is up close next to the underside of the top of
the guitar. Slightly bend it right at the end so it's next
to the pin, not below it. Remember, the bridge-pins aren't
supposed to be pulled upwards by string tension. The tension
should be sideways against that pin as the strings are tight-
ened. Some pins have little grooves in them. If so, make sure
they face the right way If all else fails, you can buy just
the single string and start over. I hope this isn't too basic
and helps a bit. I know that for me, many years ago, when I
began playing, it was probably a year or two before someone
took the time to show me how to string a guitar properly.
Good luck.
Here’s part of another one:
Solids should go through twice, with the windings coiled underneath so
that they sort of slide up the taper as the peg is tightened to lock the string in even more.
Wound strings should go through once and then be tucked and bent around itself so that
as it is tightened the winding locks that in too. It also prevents "internal" slippage. The inner
core of a wound string can slip through the windings and make it go out of tune often.
Bending it over and locking it under the first winding prevents that.
Another one….
The holes in the pegs don't need to be lined up to start (unless it's easier for you that way). Just tuck a solid in, leaving a couple of fingers-worth of slack and take it around the post and tuck it into the other side again, pulling it snuggly (snug up the loop from re-tucking it in). Now wind it with the winds under the hole, making sure each wind is below the last so they tend to move up as it's tightened (that's why the peg is tapered toward the hole). On solids, five or six turns is about right. For wound strings, run it through the hole, now come half-way around again. Instead of trying to tuck it in the second time (it won't fit anyway, being too thick), put the slack string-end under the string where it enters the hole. Now bend it up and over itself close to the peg so that as you turn the peg, the string will tighten on itself which locks it in and prevents slippage. Two or three turns are about right for wound strings (again, under each other consecutively on the peg so they tend to push upwards toward the hole.
And another:
Most cheap plastic string-winders have a little slot on the bottom for pulling bridge pins out. Lots
of people never even noticed it was there! You can use a spoon too (protect your guitar finish).
Before they put “pullers” on string-winders, a tool I made myself for this was an small table-fork
where I cut off one of the middle prongs so the peg fit right in and I could pop it off easily.
They can also be pushed out from the inside with a hard object if necessary by loosening the
strings first. (I use a Bic lighter.)
_________________
Hopefully these are enough. If not, just ask!
Un-plugged is not the same as
never-was-plugged-in-to-begin-with.

John Jackson -My Teacher and My Old Friend
When the roll is called up yonder he'll be there
never-was-plugged-in-to-begin-with.

John Jackson -My Teacher and My Old Friend
When the roll is called up yonder he'll be there
#3
Posted 31 March 2004 - 02:42 PM
.13's? Nice! I'm hoping to switch up. That or else try and make a custom set with a very thick G string...
#5
Posted 02 April 2004 - 10:58 AM
The owner of this guitar complained about difficulty in tuning:

And yes, it really did come into the shop strung like this
For the rest of the story see...
Restringing - Steel Strings

And yes, it really did come into the shop strung like this
For the rest of the story see...
Restringing - Steel Strings
Page 1 of 1

Sign In
Register
Help
Add Reply

MultiQuote
